At the root of an ongoing slowdown, the luxury industry faced a unique combination of macroeconomic threats this year.
Heritage brands continue to contend with tight-pocketed aspirational consumers in America and slower-than-anticipated lockdown recoveries in China, tapping ambassadors across Asia-Pacific in an attempt to spur sales. Meanwhile, affluent populations in regions such as India and the Middle East flexed their buying power, as executives at powerhouse conglomerates looked toward these new audiences to diversify channels of income.
Beauty mergers and acquisitions took off, and top-end operators in sectors such as automotive, real estate and travel accelerated global launches. Clearly, uncertain conditions did not halt activity, much less innovation. Many luxury players rose to the occasiondespite challenges, venturing outside of the box by advancing unforeseen exclusives, thoughtful collaborations and engaging activations that carried growth.
In the lead-up to the new year, Luxury Daily is highlighting the marketing moments responsible for capturing the attention of consumers worldwide since January. Coverage will reveal the campaigns, events and strategic initiatives that have defined the last 12 months, sharing predictions as to how these themes could impact efforts in 2024.
French soccer sensation Kylian Mbappé poses with the Classic Cabin in silver. Image credit: Rimowa
Rimowa has tapped some of the biggest names in culture for its Never Still campaign, which highlights the “why” behind where travelers choose to venture, since its start in 2018.
French soccer player Kylian Mbappé, British Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton and K-pop star Rosé, member of the girl group Blackpink,front the label's latest advertising slot, debuted in September.
The marketing push presents three distinct narratives, tying each. to one of the three figureheads.
Mr. Hamilton’s portion focuses on the traveling lifestyle of a professional athlete, constantly moving from city to city as a part of his work.
The racetrack champion, now in his late 30s, seems to have taken a new stance on migration, finding wisdom with age while opting to embrace the present rather than purely moving forward.
Rimowa's video is scored by acclaimed composer Hans Zimmer
On the other hand, Mr. Mbappé speaks on the importance of travel in uplifting the next generation. Through “Inspired by KM,” his charitable organization that grants wishes to Parisian children, movement is key to meeting and surpassing the aspirations of the lucky participants.
Rosé takes a different tone in her campaign features, focusing on shifting the definition of what home means. Having lived on three continents — Australia, Asia and Europe — the nomad views wherever her next stop may be as the abode of choice.
This mentality aligns with the overall advertising slot, which prioritizes the road ahead of each talent in an appeal to luxury audiences. It also pairs well with a growing number of youthful individuals who wish to see the world, find where they fit and embrace the “hustle” mindset before settling in one location.
Rosé takes a different tone in her campaign features, focusing on shifting the definition of what home means. Image credit: Rimowa
As with former iterations, the luggage brand bet on these stars' ability to bring more eyes to its platform.
Mr. Hamilton grants the travel company the attention of a sizable fan base, sporting a combined total of 42.5 million followers between Instagram and X, formerly known as Twitter, at time of publish.
Coming in a step above is Rosé, with a fandom of nearly 74 million followers on the Meta-owned site alone.
“The campaign is intelligently conceived, and simply shot, focusing on legacy and moving forward with the parallel of exploring the world and travel, which ultimately leads to the progress of one's self,” said Christos Joannides, founder and creative director of Flat 6 Concepts, Los Angeles.
“Using three iconic figures who are destined to leave a legacy, they embody this message Rimowa is trying to convey because legacy is never built by standing still,” Mr. Joannides said. “['Never Still'] ultimately shows that Rimowa is also a legacy brand that constantly moves forward.”
Cartier, Le Voyage Recommencé
A new marketing release sees Indian actress and brand ambassador Deepika Padukone bringing Cartier’s Le Voyage Recommencé collection to life. Image credit: Cartier
French jewelry maison Cartier has been on an “haute joaillerie” high all year.
Following a series of star-studded activations hosted in light of the new launch, a marketing release that features the high jewelry pieces front and center brought the Le Voyage Recommencé collection to life.
Appointed global brand ambassador in October 2022, Indian actress and Bollywood notable Deepika Padukone stars.
Ms. Padukone moves gracefully to the sounds of an orchestral medley in Cartier’s campaign video, as the house’s high jewelry creations are shown on mirrored screens, the projections working to enhance all details.
Deepika Padukone is the face of the high jewelry campaign from Cartier
The ambassador is filmed donning a number of gems and jewels a 4.02-carat Claustra necklace is positioned upon her décolleté in one shot. Others include the Ondule Ring.
Rendered rare due to the size and shade of the 0.92-carat gray-violet diamond embedded at its core, half-moon gemstones of the same variety surround this centerpiece, giving the unit a halo effect. The term's psychological underpinnings doubly apply as Ms. Padukone lends Cartier’s ultraluxury range her likeness.
Cartier's high jewelry collection includes the Ondule Ring. Image credit: Cartier
Cartier also took Le Voyage Recommencé on tour this year.
Stops in Shanghai and Washington following its Tuscany stint. The traveling exhibition unfolded between Oct. 18 and Oct. 30, 2023.
The first event took place at Cornwell Farm near Washington, D.C., featuring an interactive master class by Alexandre Auberson, director of the Cartier Jewelry Institute, as well as a Gala at the Andrew W. Mellon Auditorium, graced by a performance from American singer-songwriter and actress Debbie Harry.
Meanwhile, projections of Cartier creations were cast onto certain landmarks in the city proper, while exhibitions at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History and the Hillwood Estate delved into the maison's history in the U.S.
Washington, D.C. marks one of two recent stops on the exhibition tour
Bridging the West with the East, Cartier revealed the second part of the Le Voyage Recommencé collection at Prince Jun’s Mansion in Beijing. The 400-year-old palace was transformed into a Cartier jewelry box for the occasion.
Experts commissioned by the brand including glyptician Philippe Nicolas led workshops. Traditional Chinese activities such as a tea ceremony and kite decoration further enriched the experience. The gala evening at Beijing Juyong Pass, near the Great Wall, involved traditional music and light displays, attended by Cartier ambassadors Lily Collins, Gong Li, Jackson Wang, Song Jia and Li Xian, alongside director Peter Chan.
"[Cartier's campaign is] very on brand and on-trend,” said Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing, Stevens.
“Deepika Padukone makes a wonderful brand ambassador, lovely and intriguing for people who may be unfamiliar with her work,” Ms. Danziger said. “And the red wardrobe is a knockout.”
Coty, #UndefineBeauty
Launched by way of an open letter published today, Jan. 30, Coty is requesting the review and removal of outdated, ageist and sexist definitions of “beauty” in a new campaign. Image courtesy of Coty
On the morning of Jan. 30, an open letter titled “Undefine Beauty: An open letter to major English dictionary houses from Coty” arrived on Ms. Nabi’s personal LinkedIn page, signed with support from Coty’s executive committee and senior leadership teams.
An accompanying petition went live on the worldwide nonprofit platform Change.org.
“An open letter to major English dictionary houses from Coty,” read Ms. Nabi’s LinkedIn caption.
“Together, in a spirit of collaboration & co-creation, let's move beauty forward.”
Both the letter and the larger campaign centered on a direct call to action, urging publishers to change dictionary definitions of beauty using updated descriptions with more modern and inclusive language.
No one can control or dictate what is, or is not, beautiful…not even the dictionary. Discover the #UndefineBeauty campaign and show your support by signing the petition👇https://t.co/9NIFTjbXcf
Coty emphasized how modern use cases for the term are oftentimes ageist and outdated, citing one specific excerpt present across the pages of many major dictionaries: “She was a great beauty in her youth.”
Lest the public forget the faces of those susceptible to impact, input from those affected by harmful definitions of beauty is captured on camera. The results of a social experiment executed on behalf of the brand take shape in a film.
The four-minute selection features 100 faces from across the globe who answer a series of questions, the first being “How do you define beauty?” Individuals across the age, race, nationality and gender expression spectrum provide their perspectives.
Either way, between the penned piece, public petition, campaign video and call-to-action, #UndefineBeauty gets at the essence of beauty’s strongest, most enduring message, proving there is, indeed, power in numbers.
Coty's #UndefineBeauty campaign video
“At Coty, we believe that no one can control or dictate what is, or is not, beautiful,” Ms. Nabi said.
“That is why the campaign to #UndefineBeauty aims to ‘undefine’ rather than simply ‘redefine’ beauty, so that no one feels excluded by the definition or examples that accompany it,” she said. “By changing the definition, if more people feel included — feel beautiful — there will be a ripple effect which touches us all.”
Vestiaire Collective, ‘Think First, Buy Second’
An AI-generated campaign video from the luxury resale platform helped viewers envision what fast fashion clothing landfills could look like at the center of major cities worldwide. Image credit: Vestiaire Collective
Introducing the second wave of a headlining social impact initiative, luxury resale platform Vestiaire Collective added 30 fast fashion names to a list of brands banned from its site last month, building upon a three-year commitment first announced in 2022.
Starting Nov. 16, 2023, apparel and accessories from brands such as Swedish clothing multinational H&M and Spanish retail chain Zara are no longer welcome on the secondhand seller's digital storefront.
The first luxury brand to earn a B Corp certification (see story) supported the program — French fashion house Chloé helped spread the word the day of, hosting Vestiaire Collective's Fast Fashion Ban breakfast panel at its Soho storefront. The event featured remarks from North America CEO Samina Virk, who was joined by Lauren Singer, a member of the company's Fast Fashion Ban Committee and managing partner of Overview Capital.
The group talked through the negative impact of fast fashion, Vestiaire Collective's second-wave fast fashion ban and how consumers can shop more intentionally during the holiday shopping in segments moderated by Erin Allweiss, cofounder of communications agency No.29. The firm collaborates with clients to advance sustainable design.
Leaders at the company have been in conversation with experts for some time, spending the last year chatting with Ms. Singer and eight other industry players and sustainability committee members, leveraging their in-depth opinions on and analysis of the fast fashion market.
The company ultimately landed on the use of factors such as low price point and intense renewal rate, or the estimated number of collections or number of new items drops per year, also citing outsized product ranges, production cycle time and the frequency and intensity of sale promotions as the rubric with which its conclusions were reached.
The luxury resale platform hosted a Fast Fashion Ban Panel at Chloé's Soho, New York store on Nov. 16. Image courtesy of Vestiaire Collective
Campaign-wise, Vestiaire Collective is inviting the public in on the mission to prevent fashion overconsumption with “Think First, Buy Second.”
Aiming to raise awareness around issues of textile waste, the release included a promotional video that uses AI to help users imagine how landfills could appear in consumers’ own countries.
Bringing piles of clothes “to life” in recognizable public spaces across the Global North, including Times Square and The Eiffel Tower, the conscious marketing effort encourages audiences to sign Vestiaire Collective's pledge, turning Black Friday into a Better Friday.
According to a statement, participants can choose between pledging to only buy secondhand this Better Friday until the end of the year, or to stick to secondhand forever.
The company is also calling upon the European Parliament and industry stakeholders to address the emergency, drawing up a position paper in an act of advocacy for greater transparency around the regulation of end-of-life and textile waste exports.
Audemars Piguet, ‘Seek Beyond’
The brand's campaign film offers a more contemporary narrative than those before. Image credit: Publicis Luxe
At the top of the year, Swiss watch manufacturer Audemars Piguet released a new campaign entitled, “Seek Beyond.”
The brand's launch came with a sentimental film selection, and acted as a rallying cry, calling in younger clients. The ads featured millennial and Gen Z characters, contemporary music and adventurous narratives that parallel the company's classic timepieces.
The nearly 2-minute clip tells a boundary-pushing tale in the sky above Audemars' Le Brassus, Switzerland base.
Extensions of the spot have enjoyed sightings worldwide. The house's marketers hosted a free Seek Beyond exhibition at the sixth edition of Dubai Watch Week, from Nov. 16 — 20, 2023 (see story).
The campaign also arrived just months before Audemars Piguet would announce the appointment of new CEO Ilaria Resta.
Following a brief transition period beginning in August of this year, Ms. Resta will officially ascend into the top post on Jan. 1, 2024.
The incoming talent will take over from François-Henry Bennahmias after more than 10 years helming Audemars Piguet and nearly 30 years spent at the firm in full.
High on the list of initiatives that will enhance the executive's legacy, Seek Beyond stands out.
“The sentiment of seeking beyond is very prevalent in today’s younger generations,” said Rony Zeidan, founder and creative director of RO New York.
Audemars Piguet presents “Seek Beyond”
“The desire to constantly shift careers, move cities, explore further, and build their own rules is very prevalent,” Mr. Zeidan said. “This spirit is something Audemars Piguet is attempting to appeal to, a smart strategy [as it relates to] the next generation of luxury watch shoppers and collectors.
“The time has come for Audemars Piguet to pass on the baton.”
Louis Vuitton, SS24 menswear campaign
French fashion house Louis Vuitton is reimagining a classic with Barbadian singer and businesswoman Rihanna. Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton
French fashion house Louis Vuitton leveraged the star power of many established names in 2023, choosing one pop culture figure to star in a set of menswear ads, driving MIV.
Barbadian singer and businesswoman Rihanna collaborated with the maison on its spring/summer 2024 menswear campaign, featuring the debut collection of Pharrell Williams, who was this year named creative director of menswear.
Arriving in bright, punchy colorways, the promotional display lifts Louis Vuitton's new “Speedy,” reimagined the classic that has remained a hallmark of brand history and iconography since its initial release in 1930.
No stranger to fashion herself, the founder of sportswear and lingerie company Savage x Fenty donned pieces from the spring/summer 2024 menswear line. In assets captured by Japanese photographer Keizō Kitajima and American artist Martine Syms, she is visibly pregnant, breaking yet another barrier via the delivery.
A statement from Louis Vuitton shares that the campaign serves as an entry into an era of creative direction from Mr. Williams' Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme.
According to the label, the freshman marketing expression was imbued with the hustling mentality that unifies residents of global metropolises.
Opening in the bustling cityscape of Canal Street in New York, where Mr. Williams grew up, Rihanna sports several looks from the capsule in a campaign video styled by Cynthia Lu and Matthew Henson.
In the lead-up to Mr. Williams' debut presentation in Paris, the city's Musée D’Orsay center showcased a campaign teaser upon its facade.
Veuve Clicquot, 'Cellar in the Sea'
This year, Veuve Clicquot announced that it would invite a group of guests on a Cellar in the Sea-inspired lifestyle experience for the very first time. Image credit: Veuve Clicquot
In June, LVMH-owned Champagne maker Veuve Clicquot began spreading word of a new experience.
The launch ties into a concept that the house has called the Art of Aging, one with roots in the Baltic Sea.
A project dubbed “Cellar in the Sea” was originally set in motion in 2010 when a shipwreck was discovered near the Åland Islands. The sunken vessel had been transporting Champagne bottles and of those, 47 were Veuve Clicquot.
When brought to the surface more than a century later, the bottles were found to be near-perfectly preserved, thanks to a combination of darkness, consistently low temperature and the pressure of submersion.
The brand subsequently launched a series of experiments in 2014, lowering wine bottles 131 feet below the Baltic Sea in an “Åland Vault” to recreate the conditions of the shipwreck at its original site, and comparing those to cases placed in Reims, France's underground Maison Clicquot cellars in tastings previously only open to scientists, sommeliers and other experts.
This year, Veuve Clicquot announced that it would invite a group of guests on a Cellar in the Sea-inspired lifestyle experience for the very first time, hosting the excursion from June 22 to 25, 2023.
The three-day Solaire Voyage tour took place across scenic landscapes and involved never-before-seen stops. Day one participants flocked to Champagne, France for tastings, later having dinner at Veuve Clicquot's exclusive, invite-only mansion, Hôtel du Marc.
Veuve Clicquot's Cellar in the Sea experience launched in 2023
A next-day flight to the Åland Islands between Sweden and Finland involved a boat ride to the remote destination of Silverskår, during which Michelin-starred chefs Titti Qvarnstrom and Filip Gemzell served those aboard.
The trip's final full-day affair was its highlight. Veuve Clicquot cellar Master Didier Mariotti indulged VIPs with four cuvées that received the rare Cellar in the Sea treatment. Those with enough diving experience were able to head underwater to see the Åland Vault up close.
Saks Limitless
VIPs enjoyed five-star accommodations at The St. Regis Aspen Resort during Saks Aspen Limitless Weekend in March 2023. Image courtesy of Saks
U.S. retailer Saks announced the expansion of a membership network that offers access to unique services, designer exclusives and VIP events in April.
The declaration ushered the initiative, which has helped the digital platform for luxury fashion cater to its most loyal customers, into its next era.
Saks Limitless, the invite-only top client program, started 2023 by hosting an alpine getaway in March, granting special guests unique experiences such as magical horse and sleigh rides at Pine Creek Cookhouse, a mountaintop après ski party at ASPENX Beach Club and guided skiing or snowboarding lessons on Aspen Mountain.
On-demand spa treatments and private shopping appointments with local Aspen jewelry brand, Atlas Fine, plus five-star stays at The St. Regis Aspen Resort and access to the town's members-only Caribou Club, were additionally among the weekend's perks.
Exclusive pop-up shopping experiences at the Joule Hotel in Dallas and most recently, New York City were preceded by alike events at Zero Bond (see story) and Casa Cipriani in April 2022 and December 2021.
Both cities are key markets with burgeoning ecommerce top client demand — others include Los Angeles, Houston, Las Vegas and Miami.
The Saks Limitless pop-up at the Joule Hotel in Dallas allowed top clients to shop special merchandise within the boutique hotel's penthouse suite. Image courtesy of Saks
Overall, bespoke program benefits include digital and in-person styling and personal shopping services made possible via an exclusive partnership with the Saks Fifth Avenue stores.
Highly personalized support, whether the communication preference is for email, social media or in-person at their local Saks Fifth Avenue store, joins complimentary services and perks such as Pre-Order Early Access, Try Before You Buy and surprise gifts for birthdays, holidays and membership milestones, each remaining available throughout the year.
Saks Limitless hosted a weekend getaway in Aspen this year. Image courtesy of Saks
“As the largest luxury ecommerce platform in the U.S., we are committed to serving the full spectrum of luxury customers, especially those who are most loyal to Saks,” said Emily Essner, chief marketing officer at Saks, in a statement.
“Luxury consumers are an important part of our long-term growth strategy, and we look forward to building deeper relationships with these customers both online and in-person through our expanded Saks Limitless program.
BMW, 'i Vision Dee'
American actor Arnold Schwarzenegger takes viewers on an animated ride through BMW's history in the “i Vision Dee” campaign. Image credit: BMW
Debuted back in January, BMW's“i Vision Dee” concept car can hold a conversation with its driver and mimic any number of voices. Its front end has “eyes” that appear to acknowledge the humans it recognizes as they approach.
Using electric ink technology, Dee can instantly change its color to one of 32 shades. From the inside, it can completely change the way its driver sees the world.
The interior of the car is noticeably devoid of any buttons or dash instruments. Instead, its screen displays virtual controls and options.
To promote a fully electric vehicle powered by what the brand calls “empathetic technology and future-forward design,” the German automaker BMW released a campaign at the top of the year. Therein, American actor Arnold Schwarzenegger finds true love with its “i Vision Dee.”
“With the BMW 'i Vision Dee,' we are showcasing what is possible when hardware and software merge,” said Oliver Zipse, chairman of the board of management at BMW, in a statement.
“In this way, we are able to exploit the full potential of digitalization to transform the car into an intelligent companion.”
Standing for “Digital Emotional Experience,” or “Dee” for short, the automaker's augmented reality function created such a personalized, interactive and immersive experience for its owner that the prototype has gone so far as to promote itself as a digital soulmate.
Arnold Schwarzenegger finds true love with BMW's “i Vision Dee”
“That is the future for automotive manufacturers — and, also, for BMW: the fusion of the virtual experience with genuine driving pleasure,” Mr. Zipse said.
“With its intelligent, almost human capabilities, BMW 'i Vision Dee' accompanies drivers not only through real-life situations on the roads, but also in their digital environment.”
The car's features centered a presentation at the 2023 CES in Las Vegas.
Gucci Cosmos
The exhibition takes its selections from the Gucci archives in Florence. Image credit: Gucci
When Italian fashion label Gucci announced the launch of a traveling exhibition in February, few would be able to predict the scope of the celebratory situation that would unfold in the months to come.
Curated by Italian fashion critic and theorist Maria Luisa Frisa, the multisensory event made its inaugural address in Shanghai’s West Bund Art Center on April 28, remaining open through June 25, 2023.
Gucci Cosmos tells the story of the maison’s 102-year journey through its archives, placing a collection of some of its most enduring pieces on view.
Themed rooms titled “Portals,” “Zoetrope,” “Eden,” “Two,” “Archivio,” “Cabinet of Wonders” and “Carousel” were brought to life for the exercise. For the exhibition's “Duomo” space, mannequins don Gucci looks from the 1970s through the present day, gliding on a constantly moving catwalk.
City-specific additions enhance the appeal. For the latest tour stop in London, a new “Gucci Ancora” room references the debut collection of creative director Sabato De Sarno. In the city, the team behind Gucci Cosmos also installed a recreation of the entryway at The Savoy, where brand founder Guccio Gucci himself worked as a porter and liftboy in the late 1890s.
The new room, titled “Gucci Ancora,” is inspired by the work of creative director Sabato De Sarno. Image courtesy of Gucci
“Gucci has always charted its own course, building a legacy that is rooted in heritage and craftsmanship while always present at the intersection of fashion and culture,” said Marco Bizzarri, president and CEO of Gucci, in a statement.
“Gucci Cosmos is a true celebration of the brand’s evolution.”